What is Selvedge Denim?
Article Updated November 22, 2024
Denim heads, listen up. For centuries, denim has been a popular fabric, and the trend doesn't seem to be going anywhere.
Denim aficionados know that selvedge denim is the gold standard of jeans. Selvedge, also called “selvage” or "self-edge," is made on a shuttle loom, creating a narrower fabric with a tighter weave. The result is more durable and heavy-weight denim with a pronounced ridged edge.
Selvedge denim gets its name from colored lines that run along the out-seam edge (generally red or orange).
It's typically more expensive than other types of denim, but it has a unique look and feel. If you're looking to invest in a quality pair of jeans, selvedge might be the way to go. Keep reading to learn more about this premium fabric.
How Selvedge Denim Is Made
There are two ways to weave denim: with and without shuttles. Shuttle weaving is the traditional method.
The shuttle threads the weft through the warp shed. Weft threads are continuously passed back and forth, resulting in self-finished edges.
This tightly woven and durable edge can be incorporated into the garment without any additional processing. Shuttles are a relatively slow process that creates a bottleneck in terms of production speed.
Denim makers use shuttleless weaving machines when they need to weave faster (and cheaper). Most shuttleless weaving is done on a projectile loom. Rather than a shuttle, a small metal device that looks like a bullet (hence its name) carries the weft across the shed. This weft insertion process creates frayed edges at both ends of the fabric that must be cut before the fabric is sewn into jeans.
Difference Between Raw and Selvedge Denim?
Raw denim has not been treated with chemicals or dyes and has not been washed. Because it hasn't been treated, raw denim often feels stiffer and more rigid than other types of pre-treated denim to start off.
In addition, selvedge denim is a type of denim that is woven on shuttle looms. The finished edges of the fabric are tightly woven and often have different colored threads, which prevent the fabric from fraying or unraveling.
Both selvedge and raw denim can be used to make jeans, but selvedge denim is often considered higher quality.
Read our "What is Raw Denim" blog post for more in-depth information on Raw Denim.
What Makes Selvedge Denim Special?
Selvedge denim is a type of denim fabric that is characterized by a clean edge on both sides of the fabric. The selvedge refers to the self-finished edge of the fabric that prevents it from unraveling. The quality of selvedge denim is often considered higher than non-selvedge denim because of its durability and uniqueness.
The production process of selvedge denim is also more labor-intensive, which contributes to its sometimes higher price tag. Denim enthusiasts often prefer it for its classic look and feel. It is also widely considered more durable than non-selvedge denim, as the fabric is less likely to stretch out over time.
Related reading: Is Selvedge denim worth the price tag?
Selvedge Denim vs Regular Denim
Selvedge denim jeans are going to be higher quality and more durable than regular jeans. The construction of selvedge denim jeans prevents the fabric from fraying or unraveling. Most selvedge denim you will find will be raw selvedge denim that is untreated and unwashed, letting you experience the full life cycle of the jean.
Purchasing selvedge denim should be seen as an investment piece because not only are you getting a high quality and durable jean, you are getting a piece that will last you several years and has low environmental impact compared to regular pre-distressed jeans due to their untreated and unwashed construction.
What to Wear with Selvedge Denim
Today, selvedge denim is experiencing a resurgence in popularity due to its unique look and durability. When it comes to styling selvedge denim, the options are endless. However, there are a few key pieces that everyone should consider adding to their wardrobe.
One option is to pair your selvedge jeans with a casual shirt or sweater. This creates a relaxed look that is perfect for weekend wear. A classic white tee or button-down shirt is the perfect way to show off the selvedge line, while a blazer adds a touch of elegance.
If you're looking to add some quality pieces to your wardrobe, selvedge denim will be your best bet. So what are you waiting for? Start shopping!
How to Care for your Selvedge Denim
Selvedge Denim, especially Raw Selvedge Denim requires special care in order to maintain its quality and avoid any damage. Here are a few tips:
- Wash your jeans infrequently, inside out in cold water and hang them to dry.
- Do not bleach or iron your jeans.
- Don't put them in the dryer. This will cause them to shrink and lose their shape.
- Hang them up to air out after wearing them rather than folding them in a drawer. This will help to prevent odors from building up.
- Use a denim brush or sponge to remove dirt and stains.
Read our "How to care for your denim" blog post for more information on how to wash and care for your selvedge jeans.
Shop Our Collection of Selvedge Denim
When looking for the perfect pair of selvedge denim or raw selvedge denim, it is important to have the correct measurements - especially if you are buying the denim online. Grab the best fitting pair of jeans you currently own and follow along with our denim measuring guide to ensure a perfect fit.
At Danali we hand pick the denim we love and would wear ourselves. We carry selvedge and raw denim from brands Nudie Jeans, Naked and Famous Denim, and more. As well as rare and exclusive Japanese denim brands Momotaro Jeans, Pure Blue Japan, and Fullcount.
How long is the initial break-in period for Selvedge Denim?
Raw Selvedge denim initially will be stiff because it is unwashed and untreated. It will require some time to conform to your body and become more comfortable. The length of the break-in period will depend on how often you wear your jeans and what activities you are doing in them. Typically, the break-in period can last a few weeks to a couple months.
When Should I wash my Selvedge denim?
The common wisdom you will hear when discussing washing your selvedge denim, is that you should hold off washing your jeans until at least six months of wear. Of course, depending on how you wear your jeans, this timeframe may vary.
Remember, your jeans are tough, they can take it. If they need a wash, do not hesitate and refer to our care guide for information on how to wash.
Selvedge Denim Repairs
Selvedge denim is extremely durable and lasts a seriously long time. But like all things there will come a time when your jeans will need some love and care. The most common repair is crotch reinforcement or crotch blowout repair. This can be repaired at most tailors or here, at Danali we offer tailoring and hemming services for your jeans.
