Sanforized, Unsanforized, and One Wash Denim

Selvedge denim has exploded in popularity over the years but the process of purchasing a pair of selvedge denim can be intimidating. With terms such as Japanese denim, raw denim, and sanforized or unsanforized denim, it can get complicated. In this post, we will discuss the different states of denim you will encounter when looking for selvedge denim.

Sanforized Denim - Is a mechanical process where the fabric is treated before it is woven into jeans. The fabric is exposed to pressure and heat in the form of steam. The end result is the denim is more stable, will shrink less, and are ready to wear immediately.

Without sanforization, consumers would be required to manually shrink their jeans to fit, making jeans a lot less accessible. The sanforization process is excellent in combatting garment shrinkage but it can inadvertently impact the denim's unique texture, creating a smoother looking denim.

On the other hand, the benefits of sanforized jeans is you can expect the fit will be the same throughout the life of the jeans. After a wash you can expect minimal shrinkage and in most cases the denim will stretch to conform to your body after a few wears. The other benefit of sanforized denim is they can be worn from purchase without any need to soak or wash them.

Unsanforized Denim - Refers to denim that has not undergone any shrinkage methods before being made into jeans. This is how jeans were made before sanforization methods were invented in the 1920’s. Unsanforized jeans, commonly called “Loom State Denim”, keep the original texture and feel of the denim straight from the loom. This "hairyness" texture of loom state or unsanforized denim is sought after by denim enthusiasts. 

Unsanforized denim jeans need to be soaked or washed before you wear them as you can expect them to shrink anywhere from 1 to 1.5 inches in the waist and length depending on the fabric. This shrinkage is why we recommend to take one or two sizes up from your usual denim size when buying unsanforized jeans.

The benefit of unsanforized denim is the texture and detail maintained in the denim resulting in a unique depth in the color as you wear them and create unique fades. Unsanforized jeans will soften quite fast after a soak and become more comfortable quickly.

Unsanforized One Wash - The same as an Unsanforized denim but the difference is these jeans are washed once by the manufacturer  to take the shrinkage out of the fabric. This process softens the denim while maintaining the “hairiness” texture and character of the fabric.

The benefits of buying Unsanforized one wash jeans is you get the benefits of unsanforized denim but the jean is pre-shrunk and maintains the original characteristics of the denim. Typically, one wash jeans are true to the tag size so you can be confident you are getting the size and fit you like. 

The jeans will be comfortable from day one and ready to wear immediately. One wash jeans will fade and become unique to your lifestyle similar to your typical raw denim jeans, but you get to skip the initial "breaking in" period that you would experience.

There are many ways to soak or wash your unsanforized denim but no matter the method, the most important thing about soaking or washing your jeans is the water temperature. The jeans will shrink more in hot water and less so in cold water. Do not use boiling water as this will damage the fabric and the leather patch. Here is how we at Danali, would soak our unsanforized denim.

Before starting the washing process, there are two thing you need to decide on:

• Make sure you have the correct size of jeans. With unsanforized denim, we recommend going up one or two sizes form your normal waist size to account for the shrinkage. When trying on unsanforized denim, they should have a generous, roomy fit with space in the waistband to fit 1-2 fingers.
• Decide on the water temperature you will use. With hot tap water, you can expect the waist to shrink about 1.5 inches, lukewarm water will cause about 1 inch shrinkage, and cold water will be less than 1 inch. If it is your first time soaking or washing your jeans or you want to be cautious with them, we recommend using cold water because if they don’t shrink enough you can always re-soak them again in cold or warmer water to get the desired fit.

Now you are ready to soak your unsanforized denim, follow these steps:

• 1. Find a place to soak your jeans, this can be a bathtub, large sink, or bucket. It needs to be large enough to fit and fully submerge the jeans.
• 2. Fill your chosen vessel with water (the hotter the water, the more shrinkage) and make sure the jeans are fully submerged. You will likely need to weigh the denim down using a weight, this could be a shampoo or soap bottle. Anything that will keep the denim fully submerged for an extended period of time will work.
• 3. Let the jeans soak for 30-45mins or up to an hour but we recommend about a 40-45 min soak. This allows the fabric to absorb as much water as possible.
• 4. Remove the jeans from the water and let them air dry. We recommend hanging them up to air dry but if that is not possible, laying them flat on a towel will work.
• 5. Once fully dried, try the jeans on and determine if the fit is what you like. The pair might feel a little snug but will stretch out again as you wear them. If the pair is still too roomy for your preference, you can soak them again and repeat the process.

- What is selvedge denim?

- What is raw denim?

- Is raw denim worth price tag?