Definitions of Japanese Denim

Buying Japanese denim can be a daunting experience, especially with the many specialized terms like selvedge denim, raw denim, sanforization, rope dyeing, and more. To help you navigate the complexities of Japanese denim, we've created a comprehensive glossary of essential Japanese denim terms. This guide is designed to be a valuable reference, making it easier for you to understand the unique features and craftsmanship behind Japanese denim, so you can make informed choices with confidence.

When it comes to high-quality denim, Japanese denim stands out as one of the most sought-after jeans in the world. Known for its durability, craftsmanship, and unique finishes, Japanese denim has a rich history and distinct characteristics that set it apart from other denim types. In this guide, we will walk you through key Japanese denim terms that every denim enthusiast should know.

Related reading:

- What is Selvedge Denim?

- What is Raw Denim?

- What is One Wash, Sanforized, Unsanforized Denim?

- Is Raw Denim Worth the Price Tag?

Bartacks

Bartacks are a series of closely spaced stitches used to reinforce potential stress points on denim garments, such as belt loops, zippers, and pocket openings. These stitches help ensure durability, a hallmark of Japanese denim quality.

Broken Twill

Broken twill is a unique denim weave where the twill line changes direction every two warp ends, preventing the leg twisting often seen with regular denim jeans. This weaving technique is common in Japanese denim, contributing to both comfort and longevity.

Button Fly

A button fly refers to the opening at the front of denim jeans secured with buttons instead of a zipper. This traditional feature is often seen in premium Japanese denim jeans, adding a vintage touch.

Chain Stitch

Chain stitch is a technique where a looped stitch creates a chain-like pattern, commonly used in hemming denim jeans. At Danali, we use a vintage Union Special machine to offer expert hemming services on Japanese denim.

Dip Dye

Dip dye is a technique used in the dyeing process of Japanese denim, where the fabric is dipped into dye multiple times. The more dips the denim undergoes, the deeper the dye becomes, resulting in a rich, indigo hue often associated with premium Japanese denim.

Double Needle Stitch

Double needle stitching is a technique where two parallel seams are stitched in a continuous line, providing extra reinforcement to areas of the denim that experience higher wear and tear.

Fading

Fading refers to the process where the indigo dye in denim slowly fades over time, revealing lighter hues and eventually exposing the white cotton core. Fading is a characteristic of high-quality Japanese denim, often accentuated through wear and tear.

Honeycombs

Honeycombs refer to the pattern formed at the back of the knee area on Japanese denim jeans as they fade and crinkle over time. This distinctive pattern adds character to the jeans and is highly valued by denim enthusiasts.

Japanese Denim

Japanese denim is widely regarded as the best denim in the world. Produced in Japan, this type of denim is often made using traditional techniques such as weaving on vintage shuttle looms. The craftsmanship and attention to detail involved in making Japanese denim create a product with unparalleled durability and aesthetic appeal.

Left Hand Twill (LHT)

In Japanese denim, Left Hand Twill (LHT) refers to a fabric weave where the diagonal lines run from the bottom right corner to the top left. Left Hand Twill denim feels softer and emphasizes vertical fading compared to the more common Right Hand Twill.

One Wash Denim

One Wash Denim refers to denim that has undergone a single pre-wash to remove most of its shrinkage. This treatment preserves the unique texture and character of the denim, especially in Japanese denim which is known for its raw and untreated look.

Raw Denim

Raw denim is untreated denim fabric, left in its natural state. Unlike pre-washed denim, raw denim retains its original texture and will develop a unique fade pattern over time. Many of the finest Japanese denim brands specialize in raw denim, allowing for a one-of-a-kind look as it breaks in.

Right Hand Twill (RHT)

In Japanese denim, Right Hand Twill (RHT) refers to a fabric weave where the diagonal lines run from the top right corner to the bottom left corner. Right hand twill is the most common twill used in jeans, it creates a more compact fabric with crisper fades compared to Left Hand Twill.

Rivets

Rivets are small metal fasteners used to reinforce stress points, particularly at the corners of pockets. Japanese denim jeans are often crafted with rivets to ensure durability.

Rope Dyeing

Rope dyeing is a method where denim yarns are twisted into a rope-like form and repeatedly dipped into indigo dye. This technique allows for the core of the yarn to remain undyed, which is a key factor in the unique fading characteristics of Japanese denim.

Sanforized Denim

Sanforized denim is treated to prevent shrinkage after washing. This process makes the denim more stable and easier to care for. Many Japanese denim brands offer sanforized options for those seeking a more predictable fit.

Selvedge Denim

Selvedge denim is a high-quality denim fabric characterized by a clean, self-finished edge. The term "selvedge" refers to the edges of the fabric that are tightly woven to prevent fraying. Japanese selvedge denim is particularly prized for its superior craftsmanship and durability.

Slub

A slub is a thicker area of yarn that creates an irregularity in the fabric's texture. Slubs add character to Japanese denim and are often intentionally woven into the fabric to create a more textured and visually interesting material.

Unsanforized Denim

Unsanforized denim, also known as Loomstate denim, refers to denim that has not been pre-shrunk before being made into jeans. This type of denim is sought after by denim purists who appreciate the raw, authentic feel of the fabric. Many Japanese denim enthusiasts prefer unsanforized denim for its unique aging process.

Warp/Weft

The warp is the lengthwise thread in denim fabric, while the weft is the transverse thread. The balance between these threads contributes to the overall texture and strength of Japanese denim.

Whiskers

Whiskers are the horizontal fade lines that form around the lap and crotch area of Japanese denim jeans. This natural fading effect is a prized characteristic of well-worn denim.

Fullcount: Founded in 1993, Fullcount embarked on a journey to capture the essence and quality of vintage American denim. Fullcount made history as the first Japanese denim brand to use Zimbabwe cotton. This hand-picked, organic cotton, known for its exceptional strength and softness, played a pivotal role in putting Japanese denim on the global stage. Learn more about Fullcount denim by reading our spotlight on the brand here.

Momotaro: Made by hand without compromise. The Japanese denim brand Momotaro was founded in Kojima, Okayama in 2006 - the birthplace of Japanese domestic jeans. Momotaro, as we do, believe jeans are not only for fashion but to be the tool for creating lifestyle. The best quality tool. Through the Okayama artisan spirit, there is a deep understanding for what denim is at it's core, and unwavering commitment to the intricate art of dyeing, weaving, sewing and washing, resulting in the highest quality "jean."

Pure Blue Japan: Pure Blue Japan reflects a profound affection for natural indigo and its beautiful blue colour. All the products are entirely domestically produced in Japan. Pure Blue Japan is on a continuous mission to challenge the new expression of indigo by utilizing the delicate and outstanding technology of Japanese craftsmanship for all processes, including dyeing, weaving, sewing and distressing. Established in 1997, in Kurashiki-city Okayama, Japan.