Denim Explained: Japanese Selvedge Denim

Welcome to Denim Explained with Jon, Danali's new show where Jon spills his knowledge on all things denim and more! Jon is excited to share with you everything he knows and if there is anything you want to know, just ask! Cheers!

In this first episode, Jon introduces Japanese Selvedge Denim and compares projectile looms to shuttle looms, highlighting differences in quality and craftsmanship.

Video Transcription:

Hi I am Jon, this is denim explained.

So projectile denim, that would be called commercially woven denim, is literally shooting projectiles that hold this weft yarn. And there's multiple projectiles, and they go super fast. There's a lot of tension on that yarn. 

The contrast to that would be selvedge denim and shuttle loomed fabric. This is what all the weft yarn is housed on. And what is happening is the shuttle is really creating a continuous weft yarn and then dyed by the rope dyeing process, which keeps a very tight core, so the dye doesn't impregnate the core, but rather sits on top. 

There's a patina that forms on old school vintage denim that is hard to form on projectile looms. I would say that the quality is better, the craftsmanship is better. 

Now that's not a blanket statement, that they're always better. It's just such a time consuming process to weave. Usually, companies are going to use very good quality yarns and good dyeing processes, and then the finish itself is exposed with these selvedge edges that run all the way up your out seam where the contrast is, they're all cut edges. 

So imagine this edge is cut and not just a natural woven edge. They have to surge it off with thread or else it would fray. You know, there's a few different ideas of why I think selvedge denim would be better, and I hope that opens up some questions. Cheers!